Gastronomy — Trogir

A morning in Maslinica — a quiet village on Šolta

Where to look, what to taste, and the five-minute walk that turns a harbour stop into something more.

Mia Kazoti5 min read
Maslinica harbour, looking back from the seven islets.

Most boats stop in Maslinica for an hour and never leave the waterfront. This is the version of the village I show guests when we have ninety minutes instead.

The harbour

The natural harbour at Maslinica is small — maybe 200 metres across — and ringed by seven islets that break the prevailing weather. It is one of the few places on the western coast of Šolta where a boat can sit at anchor in any wind.

The waterfront is anchored by the Martinis Marchi castle, an 18th-century estate that today houses a hotel, a marina and one of the better restaurants on the island. The castle itself is worth a slow look from the water — it’s one of the last working examples of Adriatic coastal fortification.

The five-minute walk uphill

Most visitors stay on the harbour level. Five minutes uphill, behind the church, the village turns into stone lanes, fig trees and small gardens. There is a small olive press here, a family that still hand-cures olives in seawater, and a view back over the harbour that most day-trippers never see.

What to taste

  • Olive oil from one of the small Šolta groves — the island is built for it.
  • Almonds, dried figs and candied citrus from the surrounding gardens.
  • Arancini — a candied bitter-orange-peel sweet, not the rice variety.
  • A glass of Dobričić — the indigenous Šolta red, dry and a little smoky.
The good olive oil never travels far. If you can taste the hill it came from, you’re drinking it the right way.
A grower in Maslinica

A note before you go

Maslinica is small and the rhythms are old. The village is busiest between 12 and 14, and very quiet either side of that. If you are arriving by boat, plan your land time around the heat — 11:00 and 17:00 are the kindest windows.

Keep reading

More from the journal.

The day this was written about

Sail the route, not just the story.

The Gastro-Heritage tour visits Trogir, the Blue Lagoon, Maslinica and an OPG lunch on Čiovo. Small group, snorkel gear included.